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Josiah Georgeson

DMM Ultra O VS Petzl OK Ball Lock Carabiners

Updated: Oct 22, 2019

DMM Ultra O Carabiner VS Petzl OK Ball-Lock Carabiner

The DMM Ultra O carabiner is my staple aluminum oval biner for most day to day climbing situations, and the newer version supposedly has fixed the premature failure issue of the previous generation, although I have yet to experience this failure. It is a smooth acting basic carabiner with no sharp edges or catch points, and an ideal diameter for most hardware. The triple acting lock takes some getting used to but after enough practice can easily be operated with one hand. The Petzl OK Ball-Lock functions similarly with the primary difference being the third lock mechanism. The ball lock is a little easier to manage for new users than the pull down and twist motion of the DMM. It has also been known to be prone to small bits of dust and dirt gumming up the function. With regular cleaning both should remain smooth and easy to operate for many working hours!


DMM


Pros:

1. VERY smooth surfaces

2. Anodized, Heat treated,

3. 25kn major and 12 kn minor axis strength (stronger)

4. Weight 71 grams (lighter)

5. Standard triple locking motion to unlock


Cons:

1. More expensive $24.95

2. Some history of dirt causing failure to close

Petzl: OK Ball lock carabiners


Pros:

1. Easier locking function for beginners

2. Big professional company

3. Works with Chicane (DMM doesn’t)

4. Cheaper $18.95


Cons:

1. Less strong on minor axis: 8KN

2. Heavier (barely) at 75g

From Left: Petzl OK, Dmm Perfect O, Ultra O, Ultra O (older version with gate reliability issues)




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